A visible diary of Paris Style Week via the eyes of our vogue director at massive

In Paris for the ladies’s spring/summer season 2026 collections, freedom was felt. It was necessary for me to attend this season as a result of attending to expertise the exhibits and see the garments in actual life helps me perceive the power these collections carry.

This season, inventive administrators let go of constraints and allowed for enjoyable to take over. From Dario Vitale of Versace’s use of daring colours, embracing a totally new course for the home. To Dior and Jonathan Anderson’s exploration of the previous, current and future and the way in which he all the time incorporates quirky particulars in his equipment. Or Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Chanel, which launched a brand new language whereas paying homage to the home’s basis.

We live in violent instances with a lot censorship round storytelling that it’s important to have a medium like this devoted to expression and wonder. This season felt like a celebration due to the surge of latest inventive administrators and new concepts, and we’ve wanted this newness for a very long time. These collections spoke to me in a manner that celebrated ladies, their energy and sexuality.

Dries Van Noten

Sept. 30, 4 p.m.

I’m all the time moved when there is a component of what I wish to name “Exhausting-Smooth” in collections — which is what I noticed within the sharp tailor-made jackets styled with flowy clothes and the way each robe was styled with sneakers — and that was the power at Julian Klausner’s ladies’s assortment for Dries Van Noten. The vibe was launched with males’s earlier this 12 months and it continued with ladies’s, from the wrestling sneakers to the daring colours and prints, plus sequin and crystal parts. From the present notes: “Watching the sundown on the seashore, observing surfers within the waves, I used to be struck by how elegant the silhouette of a wetsuit is. A second each easy and grand: the sky stuffed with color, shapes that seem, contrasts of a stiff board towards the fragile ruffles of foaming waters, and the shimmer of solar on them. The liberty of cruising on the waves, feeling the breeze and winds of the ocean: a dance with nature.” You noticed the waves within the small ruffles paired with structured silhouettes. I’m wanting ahead to extra of Julian’s journey at Dries.

Dior re-see

Oct. 2, 10 a.m.

Certainly one of my favourite issues about Jonathan Anderson is the joyfulness and camp in all of his collections. On the SS26 re-see, I obtained to see up shut the way in which he drapes jersey material on a cape to make it appear to be silk, and the way he creates ruffles out of denim as a substitute of a fragile material. There may be care in each seam, however there may be additionally French historical past within the DNA of this assortment, from the several types of bows to the tailoring and intentional use of buttons. Coincidentally, I watched “Napoleon” on my flight to Paris, which shared numerous 18th century designs on this assortment.

Rick Owens

Oct. 2, 5:30 p.m.

A Rick Owens present is a non secular expertise from the second the music begins. It connects to part of you that phrases can’t describe, a sensory stimulation that’s out of this world. The best way he manipulates material to inform a narrative all the time leaves you intrigued and questioning all the pieces about clothes development. After the present, I made a decision to see the “Temple of Love” exhibit on the Grand Palais throughout the road, and seeing Rick Owens’ creations in individual validated that thought. There was a costume made out of tubes, however every tube was product of sequins that had been inside out, so that you solely obtained to see the boring a part of the sequin — it made no sense but it surely labored. Bravo, Rick. Bravo.

Issey Miyake

Oct. 3, 1:30 p.m.

The present notes clarify that clothes generally is a protect from completely different environments, and I felt that. To me, these items are a protect from actuality, from the constructs of maturity, from the proper and fallacious. Generally it’s OK when issues don’t make sense and that evokes a sense of happiness.