Royal Ascot Merges Style & Historical past

The summer season social season in London peaks with the Royal Ascot, the premier horse racing occasion, spanning one week in June. The occasion brings collectively royals, associates and admirers to not solely wager on horses however for a celebration of British sartorial splendor beneath a strict gown code. The Ascot, established in 1711 by Queen Anne, an avid horse racing fan, launched its first strict gown code within the early nineteenth century. Right now, it stays a tribute to regal class and fanciful whimsy.
Style has at all times been central to the Royal Ascot. As Girls’s Put on Every day known as it, it’s “crucial occasion of the London season from a vogue perspective.” Friends attend the Ascot in 4 designated enclosures: The Royal, The Queen Anne, Village, and Windsor, every with its personal particular gown code, starting from refined to informal. The Royal Enclosure, unique to royals and their invited friends, is the head of the week’s fashion, notably on “Girls Day or “Gold Cup Day” when the style extravaganza is on full show.
“They Are Sporting” Attribute Kinds on the Royal Ascot, 1921, WWD Illustration
WWD has lined the Ascot for the reason that early 1900s, chronicling the highs and sartorial missteps over the many years. From shade schemes — notably the preferences of Queens Anne, Mary and Elizabeth for shades of blue, grey and yellow — to decorate and skirt lengths, and all of the whimsical hats created with self-inspired creative aptitude, vogue at Ascot has lengthy been a spectacle. But not all friends adhered to the gown code, and sure traits failed to satisfy its normal.
In 1911, French designer Paul Poiret’s fashionable hobble skirts and body-shaping types of the period have been prohibited for an viewers with the queen. Whereas many adhered to the code, others, together with Spain’s Marchioness de Villa Urrutia of Spain, ignored them and famously struggled to curtesy correctly in entrance of the queen, WWD wrote.
By the Nineteen Twenties, as vogue developed, Ascot attendees embraced the freer traits of the period. Diaphanous silhouettes in black crepe or satin, paired with lace fringe wraps and accessorized with parasols and picturesque backyard hats, grew to become the norm.
World Battle I and World Battle II shuttered the Ascot, however as class returned to vogue, WWD highlighted the emergence of post-couture fashions on the occasion in its “They Are Sporting” part. Dior’s now-iconic “New Look,” accessorized with matching hats and gloves, dominated girls’s apparel within the enclosures, whereas males’s bespoke morning fits and high hats remained the usual.
Style fashions attend the Royal Ascot, July 1955. Getty Photos
Getty Photos
Throughout the Seventies, the Ascot briefly embraced Youthquake traits. Fringe and pantsuits have been permitted, offered they have been paired with hats. HotPants, nevertheless, have been strictly barred — although WWD reported in 1971 that one visitor managed to sneak them beneath her skirt. By the Nineteen Eighties, Princess Diana’s love for vogue introduced new consideration to the occasion. Whereas she adhered to the gown codes, she additionally modernized them with above-the-knee tailor-made skirt fits and plunging necklines.
Three younger women at Royal Ascot races, sporting their very own designs, June 1971. Getty Photos
Getty Photos
The mix of custom and modernity persists right this moment. In 2012, the Ascot launched its first official fashion information to assist racegoers navigate the gown code. Following Queen Elizabeth II’s passing in 2024, English designer Daniel Fletcher was appointed the Ascot’s first artistic director. His modern strategy seen on the official Ascot web site pays homage to the Ascot’s vogue traditions whereas making certain its relevance for future generations.