Fashion

Jacquemus AW25: The whole lot that went down at Simon’s PFW comeback Womenswear

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Simon Porte Jacquemus has by no means heard of a schedule. We all know this as a result of, fairly than presenting his collections in keeping with the official Paris timetable, for the final 5 years he’s danced to his personal drum, exhibiting months after the season’s finish in glamorous areas throughout western Europe. It was all of the extra stunning then, that for AW25 Simon made his large return to Paris Style Week, even bringing tech big Apple together with him to movie the entire thing on an iPhone 16 Professional. Mockingly, in returning to the schedule and doing the identical as all people else, the designer truly managed to generate file ranges of anticipation for a Jacquemus catwalk – apparently absence does make the guts develop fonder relating to a trend present. However should you weren’t one of many fortunate few to bag an invitation, don’t concern – merely scroll down for the whole lot that went down at Jacquemus’ La Croisière present.

Hours out from the present, a handful of fortunate editors would quickly uncover this season’s invite delivered to their motels – however just for the thing to mix in with the remainder of the room. For AW25, Simon had chosen the common-or-garden tissue field as an invitation, subtly embossed with the Jacquemus emblem and a personalised, hand-embroidered serviette inside. Was the brand new assortment about to be a tearjerker? Or was there a giant dinner straight after the present? Both approach, let’s hope some distracted friends didn’t throw theirs within the resort bin.

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Every season, each Jacquemus location is extra beautiful than the final, whether or not it’s a modernist villa on a Capri cliffside, inside a prestigious artwork museum, or in the midst of nowhere, surrounded by fields of wheat. This season was no completely different, with Simon establishing store within the traditionally preserved condo of French architect Auguste Perret and his spouse Jeanne Cordeau, at 51 Rue Raynouard.

“The condo is a masterpiece of contemporary structure, an distinctive testomony to the architect’s work, designed by and for himself,” learn the present notes positioned on friends’ seats. “It’s the manifesto of the best architectural manufacturing of the Nineteen Thirties in Paris and an important milestone within the oeuvre of Auguste Perret.” With the placement, Simon appeared to boldly place himself inside the lineage of iconic French design, and in doing so hinted at a reassessment of the Jacquemus home codes for AW25.

As ever Simon dipped into his little black e-book of A-lister mates to fill his entrance row (okay his solely row). Submitting into the grand, historic condo and ushered up by bellboys in stylish little gray uniforms got here The Final Showgirl Pamela Anderson in a modern all-white look (courageous given the climate), Tyla in a floor-sweeping black column robe with horny cut-outs, plus Tems and Central Cee – severely, it was like a who’s who of former Dazed cowl stars. Simon has clearly been stockpiling copies of yours actually.

Additionally in attendance was Amelie herself, AKA French icon Audrey Tatou, British pop star Raye in a polka dot wrap costume, supermodel and former First Girl Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, and Monsters star Nicholas Alexander Chavez. 

With this assortment Simon defined post-show that he had wished to strip issues again and take the chance to dig again into his personal archives. This meant numerous the directional shapes he first made his title with, with dramatic sculptural robes and coats reappearing for the season. Horny bustier attire with fishtails that emphasised the hips had been first out the gate, earlier than he had a go at voluminous Forties-esque circle skirts which had been matched with modern, sporty windbeaters (one standout model got here in semi-see-through white taffeta).

Simon additionally stated he’d been actually impressed by Previous Hollywood and iconic, elegant film stars for AW25, so out got here a sequence of show-stopping appears – worn by runway legends Laetitia Casta and Adriana Lima – that took their cues from the curved traces of artist Erte’s illustrations. One Nineteen Thirties-inspired floor-length column robe got here in scarlet and was Jacquemus-ified for the modern wearer by having the perimeters stripped away to indicate loads of again, side-boob, and the curve of the physique because the waist leads into the bum, whereas the look Mona Tougaard wore got here with its personal connected opera glove which when prolonged turned the costume right into a sculptural piece of artwork. Elsewhere, purple carpet-ready items like a giant egg-shaped ostrich feather two-piece (worn by Alex Consani) and a dramatic black and white polka dot quantity had been each highlights that channelled previous collections. 

The gathering was known as La Croisière, which interprets to “The Cruise”, as Simon was additionally imagining the golden period of the cruise liner, when folks would take large trunks filled with couture on their journeys. So regardless that he was again in Paris for the primary time shortly, his thoughts was as ever nonetheless on far-flung locations.

Head to Dazed Style for the whole lot else from the AW25 reveals

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